Italy - Amalfi coast
Italy - Amalfi Coast
We were fortunate enough to jump on the charter plane with Daniel and the rest of the cast and crew from Estonia. We flew direct to Naples and then bussed to Salerno. Salerno was windy and rainy and that prevented us from taking the ferry to Positano where we were planning on spending Daniel’s days off. So we decided to spent the night in Salerno.
The next morning we took a taxi to our hotel in Positano. We basically had to drive back to Naples and through Sorrento to get to the coast. We arrive at Le Agavi Hotel and were instantly blown away. The hotel is just next to Positano with the most amazing view of the vertical city. The hotel had a funicular that takes you from the top of the cliff all the way down to the ocean where they have a restaurant, places to lay out and ocean access to swim or jump on a boat.
Our room was on the 1st level, every room is unique and the views of the turquoise waters below were spectacular from the bathroom window to the large outdoor balcony. Not to mention the pool was a big plus for us and the kids. The staff were so helpful, and there was even a water taxi that can take you from the hotel to the Spiaggia Grande di Positano, and pick you up to take you back.
I’ve been dreaming of visiting Positano for a long time. The colorful buildings and pretty beach covered in cute umbrellas. You have to pay for chairs and an umbrella, and towels you can rent with a deposit. The bars along the beach have food and drinks you can take right to the beach. A big ice bucket, some local white wine and some very large slices of pizza, and some Pringle’s is all we needed. The beach is busy but 100% worth it just for the amazing pictures and the warm salty water.
After two days of bliss in Positano, we had to move to Amalfi where production put everyone. Daniel had to leave early in the morning to head to work, he took the ferry back to Salerno to be driven to work. Me and the kids took a taxi to Amalfi. Only 35 min drive. We arrived at Hotel Bellevue. A small family fun hotel. I already knew it was a bad location. As it was out of town. I was already anticipating how difficult it would be to get into town walking down the winding road with two kids and not being able to use a stroller. But man I did not expect the way things were going to go.
The hotel was not welcoming at all. They first brought me to our room which was in the back corner of the hotel with no balcony and small room for 4 people. I asked for another room. They started reprimanding me telling me they do not book families at this hotel as it is a “quiet” hotel. And that they also gave production a deal on price because they booked so many rooms to us. I was so shocked I couldn’t even say anything. They basically told us we were not welcome and that it was a privilege they even booked us at their hotel. Pretty big change from where we were just staying in Positano (5 stars). Anyways over the course of the time we spent there (two weeks) more strange things would happen. They only have a cold breakfast, aka croissants, fruit, coffee. No room service or restaurant. And every time I would leave the hotel they would enter the room and turn off the power so the AC wouldn’t run. And nothing I had plugged in charging would charge. Also, we were not allowed to have outside food in our rooms. Which I didn’t care about since they didn’t even have a restaurant. I didn’t care and walked in carrying bags of snacks, wine and pizzas. This is only the tip of the iceberg. I will spare you guys from the rest of my complaining.
Let’s get to the best day we had in Italy. We decided to rent a yacht for the day, just the family. We were picked up in Amalfi and went to Capri and along the whole coast. The real way to see the Amalfi coast is by boat. You get to see everything. Each little town, beautiful natural caves and the bright blue waters. We went through Li Galli Island, just off of Positano. Our skipper said from an aerial view the island is shaped like a dolphin. And after a bit of rough waters and some sea sickness, we made it to Capri.
Capri is beautiful. We went around the entire island stopping at the three different grottos: the white grotto that had a formation that looked like the Virgin Mary, the green grotto and the blue grotto. We sailed through the lovers arch and kissed underneath it which by legend was supposed to grant you eternal love.
When we got to the Marina Grande in Capri, we had a local restaurant Lo Smeraldo pick us up from our yacht and take us into the island. We had local lobster linguine and a raw seafood platter. After lunch we started to walk around and decided to just grab some gelato and head back to the boat. Capri looks just like every other town in Amalfi. And it is honestly more enjoyable by boat. I also finally got to try a lemon granita, served in a gigantic hollowed Italian lemon. It did not disappoint.
We jumped back on the yacht and stopped in a few spots to swim and it was nothing short of amazing. We jumped right off the back of the yacht into the water and floated around on some noodles. The only thing Zola didn’t like was the salt water getting into her mouth. But Kingston was happy to be floating around in his water wings. We even stopped at a private beach on our way back to the coast and found some of our friends on another boat and they swam over for some Prosecco. Then we stopped by Positano for some pictures before heading back to Amalfi.
If anyone ever plans on visiting the Amalfi coast, these are some things I would definitely recommend.
Location is important. Be very careful where you book your hotel. We didn’t chose our hotel in Amalfi and I wish we could have. Because walking to town was a bitch. With Kingston strapped in the ergobaby carrier and holding Zola’s hand in 90 degree weather. Walking with no sidewalk.
Go with no kids. Not because my experience with them at this particular hotel was bad. But because it’s easier without kids. It’s more of a place to go to on a honeymoon.
The food was great, but after weeks it was getting old. I love pizza and pasta and seafood don’t get me wrong. But the food on the coast is different than Rome or other parts of Italy. Every local place has the same menu.
Go for a shorter amount of time. I would say go to Positano over Amalfi for sure. Beach is way bigger and better. And the food is better in Positano. I loved Chez Black, we went twice and it is so good. Best tuna tartar and fresh pesto and pasta. Amalfi is a smaller town, smaller beach and ruder people. They charged 20 euro to drive from town to our hotel which is only a 5 min drive. Amalfi you also have to pay to go to the beach to use chairs and umbrellas but the beach is not as clean.
If you get car sick or sea sick. Not sure if this is the place for you. The roads are difficult to drive on, you’re literally taking the sharpest turns over and over again. And constantly having to stop and go single file. And if you get sea sick, forget it because the easiest way to get around is by ferry or your own boat.
Sorry it was a long post, sorry for the complaining. I hate to complain about such a beautiful place. We are very lucky to be with Daniel here while he’s working. But it is definitely a tourist trap. If I visit Italy again I will visit elsewhere for sure. Possibly north to Sardinia or Corsica. But I can check Positano off my bucket list.
